A butcher is intimate. Secret, even. It said the doctor, the pump, the supermarket. They say my butcher. It's a butcher it is discovered, assimilated, it is chosen, it will have; it does not share. If Hugo Desnoyers had not become a star in his discipline, we keep to ourselves. On good things, you have to be selfish. The chops like his, it is enjoyed among fans: so poor there would Savora or ketchup ... Canopy was stylized, his butcher's shop 45 rue Boulard, in the fourteenth district of Paris, does not attract attention. A small shop, a classic stall, normal prices (for Paris, means ...). Yet customers will come with that look of cunning conspirators. In the 100 m2 store (which include cold storage and back-shop), Hugo Desnoyers is a perfect band leader. He watches over his nine "guy" and pampers them as much as its customers. In 1998, this child of Mayenne - "the land of milk and apple-rising star in Paris with the head and courage in the calves. Today, it provides Senderens Barbot Vigato, Gagnaire, Passard ... The Elysee has even come there to shop, before reducing its costs mouth. It seems we meet here Jeanne Moreau, Catherine Deneuve and Laetitia Casta. Unknowingly, it also touches Francois Simon, cucumber hidden from the food critic (and the honor of his profession) with whom Desnoyer just signed a palatable opus: Hugo Desnoyers, a butcher tender and bleeding, with Assouline.
short, in twelve years, what distance! What happened? The obstinacy of excellence. How does one account for butchers who drive 60,000 miles a year to choose their own animals ? Ranging from Correze in Lozere, Béarn in Limousin, to know them up, pet? "The meat, says he is a noble material such as leather. It should be sensual must touch it, feel its fine grain. "Now
Hugo Desnoyers has three" sourcing expert "who do this work for him, but everyone knows its demand. And the result is striking: compare a rib and a lambda Desnoyer home, we have the same difference between a shift schedule and a painting by Vermeer. Word! Every bite is a culinary ar-ology, a bite, it delves into the history of taste, in the genealogy flavors. And it makes you happy
... What is sad is that it should always be like this, what is gay is that Hugo Desnoyers is there, it was only thirty-nine years, and it was not a s' stop in such good ways. Large groups but was, of course, already offered to buy gold bridges his business. Tintin! "I could stop working, but I've never done it for the money. My butcher is a human adventure. "In the Golden Calf, Hugo Desnoyers preferred one flesh. An honest man.
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